“Metrobilly’s is a sometimes soup-and-sandwich joint for artists, activists and their disenfranchised soul mates in waiting.” –Mickey McCoy
BY PHILL BARNETT
MOUNTAIN CITIZEN
INEZ — Mickey and Nina McCoy have reopened their renowned coffee shop and restaurant Metrobilly’s for the first time since shuttering its doors at the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic.
Beyond the restaurant’s great food and coffee at great prices, the converted home on Nichols Street in Inez doubles as a museum of Martin County, complete with two of the best tour guides you could ever ask for.
The walls of the Metrobilly’s are covered in local artwork and crafts, hunting trophies, political signs, news clippings and photographs. It’s the perfect blend of kitsch and country hospitality.
“Metrobilly’s is a sometimes soup-and-sandwich joint for artists, activists and their disenfranchised soulmates in waiting,” said Mickey McCoy, reciting the Metrobilly’s tagline.
A “sometimes joint,” according to McCoy, is a place that is sometimes open, sometimes not, which makes it all the more magical when you’re able to stop in.
Mickey is the head chef at Metrobilly’s, serving up classic and experimental recipes, like the ultra-meaty hot dog chili sauce recipe that he has been developing during the hiatus.
Each day they are open, Metrobilly’s features a limited menu of a hot dog, bratwurst or sandwich paired with a soup-of-the-day. The McCoys give updates on when the shop is open and what the menu looks like on Facebook.
The McCoys have been the subject of numerous documentaries and news stories for their activism and dedication to eastern Kentucky. The pair are both from Martin County originally and both attended the University of Kentucky, where they met many folks who would become lifelong friends and co-conspirators, including Gurney Norman and Wendell Berry.
After graduating college, the McCoys moved back to Martin County to become teachers.
“This is the first house that Nina and I bought and lived in,” said Mickey. The McCoy family lived in the house on Nichols Street until Mickey’s father passed away, at which point they moved into Mickey’s childhood home and transitioned the future location of Metrobilly’s into a rental property.
When Mickey retired from teaching, they decided to convert the rental property into something that would benefit the community. They knew they wanted to create a place for creatives and community members to gather, share stories and enjoy some fresh grub. So in 2011, Metrobilly’s was born.
“A metrobilly is a hillbilly that can make it in the city,” said McCoy. “He does some things wrong as far as city rules go, but that’s the hillbilly in him.”
Metrobilly’s is a beautiful encapsulation of a county rich with heritage, creativity and evolving culture. To anyone passing through Martin County, if you can’t stop anywhere else, make sure you stop at Metrobilly’s.
The McCoys have a big year planned for the shop, complete with live music on the newly expanded front porch. Follow the McCoys on Facebook to keep up-to-date.